Western Australia Part 2: Swagging Across The Kimberley

Resting up for a few days in Darwin after a spectacular 10 day "swagging" trip across the Kimberley region - the northernmost region of Western Australia.  I am going to concede defeat right up front here - it is impossible to reduce the Kimberley to a short highlight reel.  Without a doubt it is among the most beautiful areas we have ever visited!

Thankfully, this leg of our camping trip only involved about half the distance as the first leg from Perth to Broome - "only" 2200 km (1,375 miles). Our group of 18 included 4 holdovers from the first half of the trip, and 14 newbies (mostly Aussies this time).  The days were bright and sunny and in the 80s (I don't think we saw a single cloud the entire trip), and the nights were cool and clear in the 50s, so we could sleep in our swags under the stars:  

The Kimberley is quite remote, with a population of about 40,000 people, about half of whom are aboriginal, in a land area just slightly smaller than California.  Much of the Kimberley is covered in open savanna woodland dominated by the Dr. Seuss-like boab trees and the yellow-flowering kapok trees (to the aboriginals, the flowering of the kapok means that freshwaters crocodiles - or "freshies" -are laying their eggs).


The region has a tropical monsoon climate, with about 90% of its rain falling during the wet season from November to April, when most of the region is impassable due to flooding.

While it is generally quite dry this time of year, hidden among the steep sandstone cliffs and gorges are some of the most amazing waterfalls and swimming holes we've ever seen - meaning after a hard, hot hike we were usually rewarded with the opportunity to swim in some gorgeous remote spots - each one seemingly more picturesque than the previous one (though we did have to be mindful of the "freshies", as they can be quite territorial during egg-laying season; when I sliced my foot open on a rock in one of the waterholes, I was very happy to swim to safety before any of them took note....):





 

While the wildlife is not as abundant in the Kimberley as in some other areas of the country, we still had plenty of spottings, including the occasional kangaroo and rock wallabies, wild horses, freshies, highly invasive - and poisonous - cane toads, wolf spiders (you can see their eyes when walking around with your headlamp at night), green tree ants (I can attest to the fact that they taste like lime when you lick them), an olive python (not venomous, just don't get eaten), monitor lizard, fruit bats and red-tailed black cockatoos. 







The most notable part of the trip for me was joining the O.A.F. Club ("Old As F***")  - definitely not a club that I've looked forward to becoming a member of!  Thankfully, the blow was cushioned by a very special day of events organized by my bride, starting off with a special breakfast (who but Melanie could arrange for bagels and lox - technically, smoked Tasmanian salmon -  in one of the most remote areas on the planet?)


And continuing on with a spectacular helicopter ride over the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the Bungle Bungles.  Because it was a special day, despite my fear of heights, I went along with our guide's suggestion that we "just say no to the doors" on the helicopter, and because it was my big day, I got to sit in the co-pilot's seat:



The views out the doors (or where the doors should have been!) were spectacular (sorry if I'm repeating myself, but I've run out of superlatives....)


Many thanks to everyone who sent birthday wishes halfway around the world - sorry if I haven't been able to get back to each of you individually.  All in all, the only way I could have had a better birthday was if I was turning 40 instead of 60!!!

One more day here in Darwin before we leave Australia - hard to believe 4 months have passed - and head on up to Indonesia for the last month of our adventure.  Looking forward to what we hope will be some epic scuba diving - as well as a few days of much needed R&R on the beach in Bali.  I'll let you know how it goes!

Comments

  1. Looks amazing E and what a way to enter old age! You still look 59 to me...So glad you and Mel are there and sharing with all of us back home. Enjoy Indonesia and look forward to your next post.

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  2. What a trip! Thanks for sharing the higlights, and welcome to the OAF club....you'll learn to be proud and grateful to be a member....enjoy the last leg of the journey!! We miss you!

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